Teen Model Magazine Crash Course

 A team of professionals work with one another putting together a well thought out art directed portfolio and composite. All along working with the model and their families putting time, effort, energy, & expertise, without immediate financial benefits, rewards, or compensation in the hopes of developing a loyal, professional working model in the end.

 I instruct and enlighten potential models/families of the myths, fallacies, rates, terms, politics, policies, procedures, guidelines, movement, techniques, assets and liabilities that they need to be aware of in themselves and within the industry.  This is mostly called new face model development.  Where upon I get them to the point of understanding the business, their responsibilities and position in it. I try to take the surprise out of it. I am giving them the crash course, without a fee. I direct and teach them to perform with and without direction.  The booking agents like myself have to be capable of demanding professional model rates for them.  The new model will be ahead; in a better position after reading this, developing and working with professionals that can give you the time rather than learning the long term hard knocks way in an agency that might not be able to give them the attention they are looking for. 

Understanding the differences and similarities between Managers, developers, scouts, and Agents. 

Many years ago within this industry when there wasn’t as much competition among agencies and models, the agents were your managers.  Today the industry has changed.  The agents are managers, but they manage your career with the guidance of a possible other “personal manager” or “mother agent”(MA). If you don’t have a personal manager at the time of registration then your mother agency is your personal manager.  Today the bookers that work with the agency, are representing 50 girls each, instead of 10 girls each.  Bookers/agents don’t always have the time to do everything anymore and some agencies have assistants.  Also, there are many smaller agencies, scouts, developers that introduce models to them from all over and the large agencies are more willing to work and pay managers their fees, because they depend on them to get new faces.  This is very different from the past.  Most agencies didn’t take on or pay managers commission because they didn’t need too.  However, the model industry has opened up to so many different types. This has now become accepted.  If a competing agency is willing to pay a scout, development center, manager, or another agency, with in their support network, a commission or fee, (also known as trading or placement), the entire industry now became willing to do the same.  Again, today some agencies are depending on these smaller companies to supply them with new faces.  Managers (mother agencies) are there to do some of the “dirty work”, if after being placed with an agency, and the model is unhappy for any reason, ex. Not getting called often, not being “pushed” or the booker (agent), with in the company that is handling you doesn’t really seem to like you, or the model doesn’t seem to like them, or the model isn’t getting paid, etc, the manager(MA) steps in and handles the situation so the model or parent doesn’t have too.  If you are in an agency, your manager(MA), will place you in another agency usually abroad, market to market. That secondary agency usually does not introduce you to yet another agency that is out of their market, ex. Milan, Paris, New York.  Most of the agencies that you are placed with by your (MA), are agencies that they have worked with in the past, that they have a trusting working relationship with them.  There will be times that  agency will contact us, and out of professional courtesy will ask us if they would like them to introduce the model to a foreign agency from out of town.  This is not done with out your (MA)'s approval.  There are some unscrupulous employees within agencies that will try to take control of our models' career by doing undermining things.  Just because the model is with ABC agency in Miami does not mean they should be with their ABC office in New York.  Some times however, it is a good idea, but the manager(MA) and the model make those decisions, with the input of other professionals, but not by an agency that you are just “placed with” or visiting temporarily “on stay”.  As your manager(MA), the model is placed worldwide and collects commission from them.  If an agency places the model with an agency in Paris, then that agency will be collecting commission from the agency from Paris.  That is not how it works.  When another agent, scout, developer, manager, photographer, stylist, hair and make-up artists, no matter what they are promising, speaks with a model, all solicitation is to be directed back to the MA, their mother agency. A scout is neither an agent nor a manager, they are independent and receive flat fees or they are an employee of an agency.  A very bad agency in Milan could promise to pay for all your expenses, but you work once and end up being represented by not such a great agency in that market. Just because it sounds good, doesn’t mean it is. It is a fallacy that models that have managers(MA) get less attention from the placed agency because they are paying a commission to them, is not true.  Agencies know, accept, and are willing to do this, because they know another agency will.  Paying a manager a fee has become common in the industry today.  They are gaining a top moneymaker; they are not loosing anything.  They themselves have they’re own models that they are the mother agency of and have to place their models around also. 

When the model works for a $100.00, the model receives $100.00 less 20%, from the agency, so the model receives $80.00. The model gets paid when the client pays, and the money clears the bank, some agencies pay less 25% every two weeks whether the client has paid or not. (Will explain). However, when the agency bills for the job, its $100.00 plus 20% agency fee, so the check to the agency is $120.00. This extra $20 has nothing to do with the model, and it is out of this money that the agency pays a personal manager, if there is one, $10.00 or 10%.  When there is no agency fee able to be added on the bill, and this happens at the time of negotiating the job.  Some clients will not pay a 20% agency fee, they want to hear “everything included”, so the agency has to include the “agency fee in the total and deduct it from the part of what seems the “models’” rate.  So if the model starts asking questions on the set about rates, and payments, which they should never do.  It may look like the agency is taking more of their money.  They are not, they are taking the agency fee out of what they have to.  This may seem a little confusing, but your booker is on your side, and has a responsibility to the company also.  It will be time for the model/family to be a little educated on the booking and payment process.  So your model rate maybe quoted differently to you at the time of your booking than what you may “hear” on the set.  Also, ex., for SAG television jobs, only 10% model commission is taken out, but an extra 10% is taken out for the manager, mother agent, and is considered the agency fee as explained above(it usually is 20% from the model, and 20% agency fee). SAG is the screen actors’ guild and it is a union so the rates and commissions are different.  This is dealt with as these jobs are negotiated separately. 

The model needs to be aware of usages:  When your rate is $100.00 this usually covers the usage for catalog or editorial (fashion pages in magazines) only.  When the photo is being used for more than that, ex.  In store posters, packaging, billboards, product ads in magazines for a period of time, etc. the model receives bonus money to cover those usages.  Your booking agent negotiates this.

There maybe 3 contracts, the model management contract between the model and the manager.  This and almost all contracts are mostly about knowing what your responsibilities are, and knowing what the responsibilities are of the manager(MA).  Most contracts are very easy, and parent friendly.  It is mostly for the (MA) to prove to anyone that you have a mother agency.  This business can be tricky sometimes, and someone might want to “steal you away” and not pay any commission to anyone”, this shouldn’t happen too often because the model is placed with agencies that the (MA) has worked with before.  However, an agency can get bought and that new owner or new booker might be surprised to see they are paying a (MA) commission and might try to pull some sneaky moves on the (MA) and have a little “talk” with the model, and try to convince them to leave the manager, etc, so they reap all the benefits after doing none of the work.  Also, even if  an appointment is made at an agency, the new face maybe interviewed by a new employee trying to score points, etc., and talk bad about the (MA), etc.  Saying that “you don’t need a manager, your amazing and we’ll be your manager”, etc.  Your MA, more or less will have a signed or verbal contract with you, to prove it, so there are no questions.  This should not happen often, but it is for your protection and the MA's interests.  This contract protects the manager and or mother agency.  This contract is null and void if the model is not happy and puts it in writing. Each state is different, some are "right to work states".  And an agency will most likely release you if you are not happy, and especially if you are not working.  If you are working then the contract is valid, but why would you be unhappy and want to leave if you are working. 

The 2^nd contract is between the manager or mother agency and another agency, this is the "agreement", so the manager(MA) receives commission from the agency, has little to do with the model, but I am just letting you know that one exists. 

The 3^rd contract is between the model and the agency that they are placed with. Again, each state/country is different.  For the model to get paid, the model must fill out some tax forms and possible an “independent employment contract” This states the model and the agency's responsibilities. It is the contract for that market only. Legally they have to show who they represent by contract, not by pictures, so you and the agency can get paid. Do not sign anything until your (MA) reviews the contracts.

No manager, agency or contract can “make” a model work.  If the model decides to quit, go to school, have a family, etc. then that is their decision.

“I attended a model convention and paid a lot of money and nothing really happened” Model conventions are a business.  Some really positive and motivating people operate some of them.  Sometimes they can be a great experience and educational.  Sometimes models can meet very important people in the industry and a career path can transpire.  However, if you already have the height and look, the potential model can contact a professional agency or manager directly, sign with them, and be introduced to international agencies without paying a fee to attend a convention.  The percent of models that end up with a career in modeling through a convention is very low.  However, it does happen. There have been many successful models and actresses discovered at Model Conventions.  It depends on which path you choose to take.

“Should my child go to a Modeling school”? Modeling schools are great for very young girls, 9 to 13 years old; they can be an introduction to modeling.  They can serve a purpose in helping the child gain some self esteem, self confidence, learn some modeling and make-up skills, and to purchase photos to put in a portfolio. Basically in my opinion, it should be like camp, to have fun. That is all.

“I’m shorter than 5’9, so I can to print”, if the potential model is short, than the chances of having a “career” in fashion modeling is limited.  There are so many beautiful full-time professional fashion (tall) models that the clients tend to choose them for beauty jobs also.  However, there are shorter models that work, the percent is lower, the industry does take a look at these types for beauty and some fashion also, but there proportions (body shape) are usually perfect. Being shorter today in the model industry doesn’t mean you are immediately eliminated, but the work is far less in high fashion markets like New York and Paris.  This paragraph is mostly about fashion Print, runway modeling, not TV, or film, or commercial print. Florida for example is not Paris, so there is a lot more commercial print work available.

“Don’t be exclusive” is something that a lot of models and parents hear.  This is incorrect. Models are exclusive for fashion print in each market. If the model “multi-lists” for fashion or print, then the client will be receiving your composite from 3 different agencies, this will confuse them, and they will not know who to book you through. Hence, they will not want to deal with agencies fighting for the booking.  Most all agencies have the same clients.  They share clients, ex, Gap is not exclusive to any agency, but the models are exclusive to that agency, unless the model is a child or over 35.  If the fashion model is multi-listed in one market it can be self-defeating.

Photo Testing:  “If an agency wants you, you won’t have to pay for your pictures” This is false. Some of the biggest models in the world have paid for testing in the beginning, and during their careers.  Especially, if the model needs to or suddenly changes their look.  If the model cannot afford to put some investment into photos and the agency adores you, then the agency may “advance” you the cost of the photo test, but eventually the model, most definitely, will be paying for the costs.  This cost will be deducted or factored out from the models jobs.  Nothing is for free, and the model will have to sign a contract, and possible promissory note, before a manager or agency pays for their photos/composites.  It is the models responsibility to provide composites to their agencies.  They must pay for the printing or make other arrangements as mentioned above.

“I paid the photographer 400 dollars and I still don’t have the negatives or disk” Dealing with photographers can be difficult.  They are business people and they are artists.  Each photographer has his or her own policies.  Some photographers charge for the test and give away all the negatives, Some photographers charge for the test and do not give away negatives, Some photographers charge for the tests and give a copy of the negatives/disk.  Some will give a contact sheet and then charge $20 a print.  Some shoot for free, and disappear never to be seen again, so free is not always best.  Some shoot for the low cost of the film and processing only and give away the negatives. Just because you pay for the cost of the film and processing does not mean the model owns the film.  The photographer always owns the film.  It is their profession, covering the cost of the film does not mean you have paid for the “copyright”, or you have paid for the “photo-service”.  To own the copyright to the film or buying the negatives can be as low as zero dollars or $5000.00 plus. Some will ask the model to sign something (a release), of which you never do, unless your booker has instructed you to do so. Some photographers do a trade. Ex.: the shoot is for free, but the photos will be used in a beauty salon, etc.  This should be discussed with the agent also.  If you pay $400.00 for a test and you get 1 good image from each roll (4 rolls), each image itself is worth $100.00, so you will definitely have received your monies worth.  Plus, if the model thinks the agency is going to pay for the hair and make-up artist that is incorrect also. Most hair & make-up artists do not do free tests.  Hair & make-up artists charge just like photographers do.  An approximate rate is $150.00.  And after seeing the results, ask any working model, they are worth the expense. There will be times when you will be more than willing to pay for the photo shoot of a good photographers/hair & make-up services, so you can have their work in your portfolios. It is your responsibility to communicate with these professionals & get the exact nature and details of the costs/ownership before committing to a photo-test. When a professional photographer asks to test you directly or through your agency, there usually is no charge, however, it is important to double check and it’s ok to ask questions.  Situations like these also usually require you to come hair and make-up ready, you must be prepared to do your own make-up on free tests.

One of the most important relationships to build is between the photographer and the model.  It is with the photographer, model, hair & make-up artists, MA, and new faces director at the agency that the model learns everything. A lot of this is about communication, (asking questions, staying open minded, being honest, treating others fairly & responding instead of reacting), building trust, and loyalty.  And not listening to everyone, because “we are the best”, and “don’t you know who we are”, some people are vicious, thoughtless, selfish backstabbers, and will try to convince and whisper to you otherwise.  It’s about making decisions, giving one person/company a chance, because spreading your self to thin will result in nothing. I developed models with integrity that stick to principles, to deal rationally to artistic personalities. They need to be responsible and professional. They represent not just themselves, but their agencies. People fall short, including agencies, there will be lots of rejection and disappointments, and nobody is perfect. You are to be with an agency that only wants you to succeed. 

Almost all models realize that modeling is temporary, its part-time, it doesn’t last forever.  It can lead into acting especially if that is the aspiration of the artist.  There are no guarantees, and just like every business today, no matter what it is, it is very competitive. After the 1^st job or so, the dream may have come true and that is a joy, and after that, it is all business.  Modeling is a job.  If your life’s ambition, or goal is to be a model because you think its so glamorous, and all you want is the fame, then I probably was not the agency for you and others may feel the same, that, this industry might not be for you. This business may reflect beauty, but it can be really ugly, you must have a solid foot in reality.  It is very important and I encourage people to have more ambitions than wanting to be a model.

Remember your body is your product; please take care of your hair, skin, nails, teeth and stay in shape.  All inquiries in regard to testing or representation should be directed back to your agency, so they can check out the legitimacy and intentions, please do not give your home number to just anyone.

Your agency is there to help you, please feel free to contact me anytime.